Everything You Need to Know About The Ningaloo

Before heading to the Ningaloo, I really did wonder what all the fuss was about. Expectations were high, and I got so overwhelmed by the different campsite options and varying opinions. A part of me thought that I’d be left disappointed when we arrived after the huge hassle of having to book sites so far out and literally planning our entire 15-month trip around the bookings. I was so wrong—WOW! What a place. Even without a boat, this 300 km stretch of coastal Australia is magical.

We get asked so many questions from followers about our stay and recommendations for the Ningaloo area—similar questions to what we had before going too—so I thought I’d write a blog to help with the overwhelm of booking a site and everything you need to think about before heading off-grid.

It’s a long one, but I hope you find it helpful.

Enjoy the read!

Ningaloo Reef

Ningaloo Reef is one of Australia’s most breathtaking natural wonders, boasting the world’s largest fringing reef. Unlike the Great Barrier Reef, Ningaloo is unique because it’s accessible straight from the shore, making it one of the best places for snorkelling (particularly with kids) and marine life encounters. In 2011, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its rich biodiversity and cultural significance. The reef stretches over 300 km along Western Australia’s Coral Coast and is home to an abundance of sea life, including whale sharks, manta rays, turtles, and humpback whales.

Must-Visit Spots in Ningaloo

Ningaloo is a place where you can be busy, or not and it is incredible either way. If you’re looking to explore, here are some top picks:

1. Snorkling

Turquoise Bay Drift – One of the most famous beaches in WA. The “drift snorkel” here is a must-do! Always assess conditions and read signs before entering the water. Places like Turquoise Bay Drift can have strong currents, so make sure you and your family are comfortable and have a plan. Both my boys, 4 and 5 at the time, were fine. However, I did end up saving an older lady by dragging her back to shore. She got overwhelmed, started to panic, and took on water. Know your limits.

Oyster Stacks – This was our family’s favourite snorkelling spot. It’s great for kids as the reef starts right at the entry line. It’s best visited at high tide, and there are some restrictions on when you can snorkel (check the times at the NP entry office). There’s no beach, and it can be rocky, so reef shoes are good to have.

Osprey Bay – If you want to stay on the Ningaloo, you’re probably trying to book a site here. But even if you don’t luck out on a campsite, still plan a day trip. It’s perfect for snorkelling and spotting marine life right from the shore. My boys swam with turtles, and it was a trip highlight for them.

Lakeside Snorkelling – An underrated snorkelling spot with plenty of coral and fish life. The only downside is that it’s a bit of a walk from the car park to the water, which can deter people—so it’s often quieter.

2. Hiking

Yardie Creek – An easy spot to get to. Hike the gorge—it’s best to start early, as it can heat up quickly. There are a few walk options, all following the same path, but the 3 km return walk is, in our opinion, the best. It’s a little tricky for the little ones in some sections but makes for a great hike.

Your other option at Yardie Creek is to get out on the water. SUP, kayak, or take a guided cruise through the stunning red cliffs.

Mandu Mandu Gorge Trail – Another great hike with epic views over the range. It’s uneven underfoot as you start the walk on an old riverbed, so it’s pebbly. It’s considered a grade 4 hike but is only 3 km long, and our boys loved this one. We saw so many rock wallabies and think it’s best experienced in the early morning.

3. Gorgeous Beaches

Turquoise Bay Beach – Around the corner from the Drift, you’ll find one of WA’s most beautiful beaches. In 2022, a People’s Choice Award for Best Beach on TripAdvisor named it in its top 3.

Sandy Bay – Less famous than Turquoise Bay, which means fewer crowds, yet in our opinion, it’s equally as stunning. A great spot for families with shallow, crystal-clear water. Yes, please!

Mesa Beach – Often considered Osprey’s poor cousin. There’s no reef, but we loved the beach itself. It’s perfect for paddleboarding and spending time with the family.

Jurabi Point Beach – Technically outside the Ningaloo National Park, but worth mentioning. This beach is one of, if not the best, for turtle spotting during nesting season. There isn’t much else around, but that’s why we liked it.

Where To Stay

With so many campsite options along this stretch—and adding in a less-than-ideal booking system—it creates a seriously daunting decision on where to stay.

If you’re travelling with pets and/or have an on-road setup, make sure before you book that you can safely get there and accommodate your furry friends.

I’ve listed below all of the places to stay! It’s quite the list, but I wish I had this information when we were planning.

1. North of Yardie Creek

Yardie Homestead CVP – The only caravan park on the west side, located at the entrance to Cape Range National Park. Dogs are allowed, and at the time of writing, they had an in-house dog sitter so people could securely leave their dogs for day trips and adventures.

Neds Camp – Close to the main boat ramp at Tantabiddi. Good for tents and motorhomes but too tight for caravans. There are 9 unpowered sites with a drop toilet. It’s 2WD accessible, but generators are not allowed.

Mesa – A nice campsite with 23 spots. Easy to access for all setups—just check site dimensions for specifics. There’s a drop toilet, and although the road is unsealed, it’s 2WD accessible. Generators are allowed between 8 am and 9 pm. We liked site 7 for its direct access to the dunes, but sites 16 and 18 are probably the top picks for views.

We snagged site 7 last minute and enjoyed our stay. Site 16 seems to have the best views.

Tulki Beach – 11 sites, all about 200 m from the beach. It’s the closest campsite to Turquoise Bay and is 2WD accessible. Note that the ground is compacted, making it hard to pitch a tent. Generators are allowed. No pets. Hot tip: site 6 is a winner!

North Mandu – Blink and you’ll miss this one! It’s a tiny camp with only 5 sites. It’s 2WD accessible, but no generators are allowed. No pets either. It’s only 50 metres to a pebble/rocky beach, so pack your rock shoes—but the snorkelling is said to be top-notch.

Sal Salis – Ok, this place is a super fancy eco-luxury retreat. No caravans, but if you want to splash some cash and spoil yourself, spend a few nights in their safari tents. It looks absolutely beautiful.

North Kurrajong – Only 4 sites, mainly used for schools and educational bookings, with up to 20 people allowed on one site. There are bins and a drop toilet. No pets or generators.

Kurrajong Campground – We didn’t stay here, but it was on our list. Honestly, it looked pretty good! Sites are set back about 150 m from the ocean, but the beach is perfect for swimming, fishing, snorkelling, and getting the SUP out. There are even picnic tables on top of the dunes for premium sunset viewing.

Osprey – Said to be the hardest campground in all of WA to book. It’s split into two sections: generators are allowed in one section and not the other. There are 46 sites in total. The snorkelling is fantastic straight off the small beach. Several drop toilets are available, and it’s easily accessible for all vehicles. Get in for a snorkel—you’re almost guaranteed to see turtles! No pets.

Bungarra – Only a hop, skip, and a jump from Osprey, but this small campground of 5 sites isn’t on the water. It’s a 10-minute stroll along bush tracks to the beach. Very quiet. No generators or pets.

Yardie Creek Campground – The last of the campgrounds before you need to cross the creek. It’s a great location for exploring Yardie Creek and doing the hikes. It’s also a good place to launch a tinny and is still accessible for on-road vans. When we checked out the camp, it did feel a little tight, so make sure you check site dimensions and know your setup will fit. Generators are allowed. Large bins are provided, along with tables and toilets.

2. South Of Yardie Creek

4WD ONLY. You must cross Yardie Creek to get to these campgrounds if you are coming from Exmouth heading south

One K – Only 7 sites, no beach—just rocks—but clean toilets and only 30 minutes to get back to the best snorkelling.

Boat Harbour – So quiet, with only 5 sites. You can launch small boats as it’s adjacent to a recreation zone. Not suitable for caravans.

Dogs are allowed at the next 4 campgrounds, so if you’re travelling with your four-legged friend and in an off-road, fully self-contained setup, these might just be the perfect options for you.

Winderbandi Point – What a place! Winderbandi is impacted by big tides, and some of the sites (1-8) can get closed at certain points throughout the year. There are no toilets, but there is a dump point. We were on site 30 and loved the beachfront. Site 16 looked like a great spot too, and if you wanted to be in the action, sites 1-13 seemed to be the party zone.

Please note that recently, site sizes were significantly changed to protect nesting turtles and the preservation of frontal dunes. A lot of the sites are now only 9 by 5 metres, so many vans will struggle to fit.

North Lefroy – We spent the day with friends at North Lefroy and the sites were HUGE. Great if you have a boat. Nice beach, but unfortunately no reef out the front. Dump point, but no toilets.

Point Billie – Just at the entrance, there is bore water (non-drinking water). No toilet, but there is a dump point. It’s a great base to spend time at South Lefroy and Winderbandi, but it wouldn’t be my top pick.

South Lefroy – In my opinion, the best is last. The snorkelling out the front of sites 13-20 is magic. If you get a day when it’s a ‘glass-off,’ I’m not sure it can be beaten. There are 87 campsites here, and people say the pick of the sites are 1 through 12, but I’m going against the grain and saying sites 13 to 25 would be my pick. They are just a little more protected from the wind. We scored site 20, and although it wasn’t beachfront, it was just 10 steps to the beach with snorkelling right out the front. There’s a dump point, but no toilets.

How To Book The Dream Campsite?

The most challenging part about your stay on Ningaloo is, by far, securing a booking at one of the above campsites! If you manage to snag one, I reckon the dopamine rush is similar to winning the lottery.

Here are 4 ways to secure the stay of your dreams.

1. Book 180+ Days Out.

Book 180 days in advance when sites open on the Park Stay WA website. Campsites go live at midnight (Western Australian time), so it could be 2 or 3 am on the East Coast, depending on the time of year.

You’ll also find that many (if not all) sites will be booked out when you log on. This is because sites become available 180 days before your first night’s stay, and people often book out up to a month in advance.

Make sure you’ve looked at the camp maps in advance and have your preferred sites written down. Have plenty of options ready.

2. Cancellations

People’s plans change. With people booking so far out, they often book longer than they need for flexibility. When the time gets closer, they firm up their plans.

Park Stay WA now offers refunds for people wanting to cancel, which means there’s an incentive for them to do so. Cancelled sites used to only be released once a day, but now they go back into the pool of available campsites live.

You can grab one of these cancellations closer to the time, but it does mean checking regularly 1-2 months in advance.

3. Last Minute Magic

If you’re okay with leaving bookings until the last minute, you can snatch up a no-show booking. Camp hosts do their rounds of the campgrounds between 9-10 am. They report any no-shows or early leavers back to head office. Head office then contacts the holder of the booking before releasing the campsite back onto the website for rebooking. This usually happens from about midday each day. So, don’t give up hope—check, check, check up to two weeks before you arrive.

4. Team Up

Team up with a friend who has a booking. There are some sites (particularly North Lefroy) where the sites are huge and cater for multiple vans. Check the WA Parks website, but if their site is big enough, adjust the booking to include the additional van and people, and you’ll be on your way.

HOT TIP – When looking for available sites on the WA Parks website, input a longer timeframe than you want. You can then hover over the “View Availability” button for each individual campsite to see which dates are free, highlighted in green. You might be able to do some site hopping and stay in an amazing location.

All The Things I Wish I Knew In Preperation For The Ningaloo.

  • Pack Reef-Safe Sunscreen – Protect the reef by using biodegradable, non-toxic sunscreen.
  • Bring Your Own Snorkel Gear – While you can rent gear in Exmouth, having your own ensures a better fit and hygiene. If you’re lucky enough to be snorkelling for a week or so on the Ningaloo, it’s cheaper to get your own, too.
  • Carry Plenty of Water – Drinking water is non-existent. Refill your tanks at the Exmouth caravan parks prior to heading to Ningaloo or at the Exmouth fill station (small fee). If you have bladders, fill these too, and I’d recommend buying additional drinking water.
  • Stock Up on Supplies – The last major supermarket is in Carnarvon. It’s a Woolworths, and it’s crazy busy. There is an IGA in Exmouth, but it is expensive, although fine for a top-up. If you’re in the area for a long time, you can get your groceries from Woolworths in Carnarvon and have them delivered to Exmouth through a third party. You need to be organised for this, as slots book fast.
  • Fuel – Carnarvon fuel was much cheaper than Exmouth at the time of writing. Use a fuel app to find the best deals. Fill your jerry cans and be prepared.
  • Liquor – There are no alcohol restrictions in Exmouth, so we’d recommend buying from one of the three small retailers in town. Carnarvon has restrictions on the amount you can buy in one day, unless you sign some out-of-town paperwork. It’s easy enough to do, and we did it, if you’re not heading to Exmouth before Ningaloo.
  • Be Prepared for Limited Phone Reception – Many parts of Cape Range National Park have little to no phone signal, so download maps and essential information in advance. Let loved ones know where you are and when you’ll next be in touch to stop them worrying.
  • Respect Wildlife – Keep a safe distance from turtles, reef sharks, and other marine life to avoid disturbing their natural behaviour.
  • 4WD Recommended – While areas are accessible by 2WD north of Yardie Creek, having a 4WD allows you to explore further into the national park.
  • Park Fees – All WA National Parks have park fees. Reach out to us on our socials to get a yearly WA parks pass for only $65 (50% off).
  • Fires – Check for fire restrictions for your visit, as these change often. Remember, no firewood can be collected from the NP. So, if a fire is allowed, make sure you bring firewood with you.
  • Dump Points – Some camps have toilets (mostly north of Yardie Creek), while south of Yardie Creek, you have access to dump points. With the dump points, there is no tap to access water for rinsing, so they can get a bit grim. We highly recommend filling an empty plastic 10L drinking container with seawater and taking it with you to the dump point.
  • Yardie Creek Crossing – Air down in the car park, then take a few minutes to walk over to the crossing. If the creek level is down, we’d recommend driving that way as the sand crossing catches a lot of people out, and they get bogged.
  • Flies – Don’t forget your fly nets. Flies are a menace. Depending on the wind and time of year, fly levels change, and some places are better than others, but be prepared—fly nets are a sanity saver.
  • Keep the Travel Community Strong – Look out for each other. If you see a car/van stopped, check in to make sure everything is okay. We are forever grateful to a group of legends who helped us out when we were completely stuck with a van issue.

After having a blast on The Ningaloo, are you heading to Exmouth, Bullarra Station or even further north to Broome? Check out some of our recent blogs to help with your planning.

We hope you have the most magical time.

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